Changing cooling hoses
Last Friday, I had my first issue with the MG...
Coming home from work, the engine temperature has suddenly started to get really hot, close to the overheating. π¨
I just had time to park the car at home, and seen after opening the bonnet small bubbles and vapour on the hose going from the heater valve to the heater:
Of course, there was not enough liquid remaining in the radiator :s
Oh c**p! π¨π¨
So no choice but to change all the cooling hose, as the other ones were probably in the same state than the perished hose and could split at any time.
I have ordered silicone cooling hoses from mgocspares.co.uk (here). Similar kits are available at Moss:
Regarding installation, no real magic trick: drain the old coolant, remove the perished hoses, fit the new silicone ones, fill in with new coolant, start the engine and let it warm up, stop and let it cool down, check for leaks and check the coolant level, top up if necessary.
For detailed explanations, please have a look to this good and clear video from John Klatt:
Just be aware you may have trouble while removing the old clamps, as they may be very rusty.
On my oldie, the one at the bottom of the radiator has been a real trouble. After 30 minutes of a long fight, I have finally managed to make it slip between the cooling hose and the radiator, allowing me to remove the hose first and the nasty clamp after.
When refilling the radiator, be careful with our classic cars, prefer IAT coolant with silicates, they are better at protecting copper/brass parts. OAT coolant are designed for modern cars with no copper/brass.
And most of all, DON'T mix different types of coolant, sludge could appear in the cooling circuit and act like bad cholesterol. If you are unsure, drain the old one and fill with new one.
In the end, except the rusty clamp, that was easy to change those hoses, and my daily is back on the road, with a happy me driving! ππ
A bientΓ΄t!
Coming home from work, the engine temperature has suddenly started to get really hot, close to the overheating. π¨
I just had time to park the car at home, and seen after opening the bonnet small bubbles and vapour on the hose going from the heater valve to the heater:
Oh c**p! π¨π¨
So no choice but to change all the cooling hose, as the other ones were probably in the same state than the perished hose and could split at any time.
I have ordered silicone cooling hoses from mgocspares.co.uk (here). Similar kits are available at Moss:
Those silicone hoses are more resistant than the rubber ones to hardening, cracking, ageing and to chemicals. Yes, they are more expensive too!
Regarding installation, no real magic trick: drain the old coolant, remove the perished hoses, fit the new silicone ones, fill in with new coolant, start the engine and let it warm up, stop and let it cool down, check for leaks and check the coolant level, top up if necessary.
For detailed explanations, please have a look to this good and clear video from John Klatt:
Just be aware you may have trouble while removing the old clamps, as they may be very rusty.
On my oldie, the one at the bottom of the radiator has been a real trouble. After 30 minutes of a long fight, I have finally managed to make it slip between the cooling hose and the radiator, allowing me to remove the hose first and the nasty clamp after.
When refilling the radiator, be careful with our classic cars, prefer IAT coolant with silicates, they are better at protecting copper/brass parts. OAT coolant are designed for modern cars with no copper/brass.
And most of all, DON'T mix different types of coolant, sludge could appear in the cooling circuit and act like bad cholesterol. If you are unsure, drain the old one and fill with new one.
In the end, except the rusty clamp, that was easy to change those hoses, and my daily is back on the road, with a happy me driving! ππ
A bientΓ΄t!
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